Yesterday we were ripped off. “We” includes all the tourists who have booked a transfer from 4.000 islands in Laos to a specific town in Cambodia (in my case it was Kratie, half way between the border and Phnom Penh). The day started how travel days in Laos normally start – with trouble! Our boat to the riverside almost sank because it was packed with about 15 people and the respective luggage. First there was only a little bit of water in the boat and no one was worried because the riverside was quite close but then the water level inside the boat increased rapidly. After we shouted to the boat driver (because our backpacks were already partly under water) we stopped at an island and thus avoided capsizing. From there we were distributed to other boats.
Our bus which was supposed to take us from the riverside village to the border was two hours late and as they overbooked it, three of us had no seats. I was one of them because I waited until they finalised the procedure of trying to stow all bags in the luggage compartment (to make sure the bags will not fall out on the way) and then when I entered the bus it was too late. Nobody thanked me for my supervision! The border was only 20 minutes away and as we paid 30 dollars for the visa-on-arrival instead of the official 20 dollars, the border procedure was pretty straightforward. We learned that the Lao officer receives 2 dollars bribe for giving the departure stamp quickly, then 3 dollars for the first Cambodian officer (who issues the visa), another 3 dollars for the second Cambodian officer (giving the entry stamp) and 2 dollars “administration fee” for the Mafia cartel from 4.000 islands. They are so kind to “help” the tourists with the immigration procedure but have to charge you for that service. Apart from the border scam it has to be mentioned that they sell bus tickets for 23 dollars which would normally cost 7 or so. The problem is that you have no choice because on the islands they have formed a cartel and there is no competition.
As it we could expect we had to change the bus and finally travelled to Kratie in a minivan with 20 people or so. I took an analgesic to reduce the pain for my back and my legs because there was no space. I was really pissed off because after paying so much money they pack you into these horrible minivans as a consequence of overbooking. These people working in tourism are so useless, I really hate them. I am not used to so much incompetence. The worst is that I bought my ticket on 4.000 islands from an American guy. I mean if you get ripped off by locals, it’s maybe understandable because they are poor but an American! He should really be ashamed of himself to belong to this Mafia. I am sure he has also been a backpacker some time ago and was in the same situation as the people he is now ripping off!
Anyway, we finally arrived in Kratie, a spotless Cambodian town. The stay there was more meant as a stopover. I met a lot of people there who I have already met before in Laos or even Thailand and I spent a very nice evening. Today I continued to Phnom Penh in a big bus with own seat and paid USD 6,25 for 8 hours bus ride. It’s also possible to travel without pain!
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